Sometimes, the Unexpected and Unplanned Things in Life Become the Most Cherished!
The next city that was on my itinerary to visit was Granada. There were no more cities of particular interest for me to see and if so, I’d have to re-arrange my schedule.
I was truly enjoying my touring of Cadiz. I stopped in a small bookstore. It was there that I picked up a book on the Catholic Monarchs (yes it was in Spanish and I tried to read some of it….with some success). One of the historians in the book wrote a caption under the photo of the Alcázar in Córdoba. It stated that this particular Alcázar was Queen Isabella’s favourite place to live! Seriously? I had never heard or read much about the city of Córdoba.
I headed back to my hotel to do a little research. I originally had NO intention of visiting the city of Córdoba at all. That all changed after doing a bit of research. I discovered that it was in the Alcázar in Córdoba, where Christopher Columbus first met with the Queen Isabella and King Ferdinand to propose his wild idea to venture to the New World! Suddenly I felt a push to go visit. Was it a Royal push?
All plans can be re-arranged and that is what I did. I decided on 2 nights in Cordoba and back tracked all my plans for Granada and my finish in Madrid!
CORDOBA, SPAIN – Location in Spain
BRIEF History of Córdoba
The Roman colony of Córdoba, founded in 152 BC, became capital of Baetica province, covering most of today’s Andalucía. In 711 Córdoba fell to the Muslim invaders and soon became the Islamic capital on the Iberian Peninsula.
Córdoba’s heyday came under Abd ar-Rahman III (926). Córdoba was then the biggest city in Western Europe and it had dazzling mosques, libraries, observatories and aqueducts, a university and highly skilled artisans in leather, metal, textiles and glazed tiles.
Towards the end of the 10th century, Al-Mansour, a fearsome general, took the reins of power and struck terror into Christian Spain with over 50 raids of their territory in 20 years.
When Al-Mansour destroyed the Santiago de Compostela Cathedral, he had its cherished bells carried to Córdoba by Christian slaves and then he hung them upside down and used them as oil lamps in the Mezquita (Mosque). After his death, bands of Berber troops terrorized Córdoba and Muslim rule descended into anarchy.
Córdoba was captured in 1236 by Fernando III of Castilla and became less important and its decline began.
What I have found very interesting is that; there are relics from the Roman time, from the rule of the Muslims, and the ever-important presence of Judaism.
I have also discovered that when the Christians drove the Muslims out of cities such as Cordoba and Granada, they took the existing mosques and built Catholic cathedrals either in place of them, or in the center of them. You will see Muslim buildings surrounding Christian churches.
My Arrival, Córdoba’s Heat, and My Taxi Driver
I had been amused by the residents here, especially my cab driver. Once he picked me up at the bus station, we started our quick ride into the city to my hostal. Let me tell you that a hostal (spelled with an A) is a small quaint hotel. It is not the dormitory bed style hostel (spelled with an E) that we think of in North America. That type of accommodation in Spain is referred to as an Albergue.
Once in the cab our small talk began… in Spanish (my Spanish that is. Translations in English are written in brackets below)
Cab Driver: ¿De dónde es señor? tu no eres español
(where are you from sir? You are not Spanish)?
Me: soy de Canadá
(I am Canadian)
Cab Driver: ¡Canadá! hace mucho frio ahí
(Canada! It is very cold there)
Me: No, también puede hacer mucho calor en Canadá.
(No, it is also very hot in Canada also)
Cab Driver: He bursts out laughing, ¿Hace mucho calor en Canadá? Bienvenido al infierno. Córdoba es como el infierno en verano. El sol nos hornea todo el día. ¡No refresca por la noche!
(It is very hot in Canada? Welcome to Hell! Cordoba is on fire in the summer. The sun bakes us all day. It is not cool at night).
Me: I burst out laughing and then our quick ride was over.
The locals often refer to Cordoba as hell because of the summer heat. Apparently, it does get quite hot during the summer months and becomes unbearable. Today it was 44 degrees Celsius, but it felt hotter.
The temperature is expected to rise during the rest of the week because there has not been a cloud in the sky. The residents here say that the sun beginning to bake Córdoba.
The city looks beautiful and thus far I am ever grateful for this opportunity despite being welcomed to Hell by my cab driver!
The ROMAN BRIDGE of CÓRDOBA
The Roman bridge of Córdoba is a bridge in the center of Cordoba. It was originally built in the early 1st century BC across the Guadalquivir River, though it has been reconstructed at various times since. It is also known locally as the Old Bridge as for two thousand years, until the construction of the San Rafael Bridge in the mid-twentieth century, it was the city’s only bridge across the river.
Most of the present structure dates from the Arabs reconstruction in the 8th century.
It was classified as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1984.
TORRE DE LA CALAHORRA
The Calahorra tower (Torre de la Calahorra) is a fortified gate in the center of Cordoba and is of Islamic origin. The tower was declared a national historical monument in 1931.
The Tower of La Calahorra rises up at the south of the Roman bridge, the far end from the city center. It is a fortified gate was originally built by the Moors and extensively restored by King Enrique II of Castile in 1369 to defend the city from attack by his brother Pedro I the Cruel from the South.
It was originally an arched gate between two towers. Enrique II added a third cylindrical shaped tower connecting the outer two. In the 18th century, it was used as a prison and in the 19th century, it was a girls school.
The tower was declared a national monument in 1931. the restoration of the tower and the Romain bridge and the surrounding area in 2007 was awarded the EU prize for cultural heritage “Europa Nostra” in 2014.
It currently houses the Museo Vivo de Al-Andaluz. I loved visiting this museum. This fascinating museum is particularly educational with audio visual presentations which vividly depict how life was in Cordoba around the 10th Century AD when three cultures lived side by side Christianity, Muslim and Judaism. There is a scale model of the Cordoba Mosque as it was in Moorish times before the cathedral was constructed.
Visitors are also able to go on the roof for a spectacular view of the mosque and the city over the river. (Taken from Andalucia.com).
The Alcázar of Cordoba
I have so many photos of the Alcazar and the cathedral that I don’t even know where to begin to post them. The photos of these two buildings do them no justice as they are just simply magnificent.
These are my photos of statues in the Alcázar of Córdoba – Queen Isabella, King Ferdinand, and Cristobal Columbus!
Trial and Tribulations of my FIRST Night in Córdoba – NOT ONE OF MY PROUDER MOMENTS!
I had a lovely dinner and probably too much sangria to go along with it but I was so happy to be in Córdoba! This was a great sudden change of plans. The night time views of the buildings flooded with light and the Bell Tower were magnificent! I was captivated as I took photographs!
This Bell tower was spectacular at night.
I was so captivated by the bell tower that I wanted to get a really good picture. I was backing up (slowly, thank goodness) and I bumped into someone and I heard a frail woman’s voice yell out Dios Mio! I turned around to discover this wee little elderly lady sprawled out on the street! I felt horrible. That feeling became much worse when I discovered she was a nun!
The 3 other sisters with her (all dressed in habits) were shouting at me. Was she also not watching where she was going because she was looking at something herself? Did we both sort of bump into each other? Judging from the many screams of Dios Mio, it appears I messed up badly.
I immediately helped her up. She was ok and I apologized a thousand times! She was rather lovely about it but the other sisters who were with her were not impressed and brushed me off! Luckily, I was able to read from their huge crosses and name tags which convent the belonged to. I later found out there was some sort of conference in town.
Ugh! What did I just do? I felt horrible. In the morning, I went out to buy flowers, looked up their convent and walked over. I made my arrival known by knocking on the door. One of the sisters who was there opened a small window in the door. I got THE LOOK!
I explained how sorry I was and showed the flowers. I simply left them at the door and left. I was sad and sorrowful. That is Catholic guilt at its best!
This was the photograph that I took just before I accidentally knocked over the elderly, nun on the street. I had no idea how that accident would curse me for the duration of my Spanish tour.
La Noche Blanca
This was an all night arts and music festival celebrating Flamenco! It was a one night only event being held on my 2nd night there! My first night was too busy injuring elderly nuns so I was glad night 2 would be different! and how lucky was I to be there for it? It reminded me of the exact same event we have in Toronto – La Nuit Blanche
Wow! The Spaniards can sure throw a night party! It was so busy, so many people, so fun, and so civilized!
I didn’t see any overly drunk or unruly people. I just saw hundreds and hundreds of people enjoying dance, culture and laughing in the streets with their friends and family!
I was able to catch the 1:30 AM concert and dance show of flamenco! It’s truly an art! You can’t help but feel the music, move to the rhythm, and be captivated in the story being told.
Imagine sitting beside a UNESCO world heritage building which sits alongside an ancient Roman bridge, watching one of Spain’s top flamenco dancers perform!
The videos do it no justice, but I enjoyed watching it and taking them!
Here are 2 shirt clips to watch! Simply click on each link to view the video. They may take a few minutes to load and then open
VIDEO CLIP #1 Below:
VIDEO CLIP #2 Below:
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This is no easy dance! I t really is a story being told. I also happen to love Flamenco guitar music! It was a pleasure to listen to last night. FYI – Ottmar Liebert is a great Flamenco guitarist and is a favourite of mine. He has a CD of Flamenco Christmas Songs which is amazing (Poets of Angels).
Flamenco
Flamenco originated in the Spanish region of Andalusia in the 18th Century and is closely linked to the gitano (gypsy) culture present in that region. The art form of Flamenco consists of three distinct parts: the ‘cante’ or song, the ‘toque’ or playing of the guitar, and the ‘baile’ or dance.
I love to listen to the music and watch the dance if Flamenco. It’s truly passionate to see.
Night Photos of Córdoba!
I took these photos and while walking around at La Noche Blanca
I have only seen a small portion of the city in the three short days I’ve been here but you just can’t cover it all in that short of a time period. I I am ever grateful for this opportunity.
A Final Series of Photos from My Last Day and Night in Córdoba
I am SO EXCITED to leave for the City of Granada!
I REALLY hope that poor little elderly nun I knocked over on the street is ok!
KEEP WALKING!